Dreamweaver is a great WYSIWYG software tool ... but it too has its limitations.
Hand coding is only limited by the coder's knowledge and the W3 conventions.
I would highly suggest you learn to code by hand.
I am not sure what you are looking for ... you mention PHP but the current site has no PHP in it.
Are you asking for a PHP based site?
Or are you just looking for a well laid out HTML / CSS site?